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What are actives in skincare?

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. 

And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. 

One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time. There’s no fighting against the natural degradation of our products. 

But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern. 

Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising.  

The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  

Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. 

Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good.

Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  

Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. 

When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  

Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. 

The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. 

The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your skincare goals and concerns. 

The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. 

And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. 

We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. 

There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. 

The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. 

What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

Exponent sources 

  1. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products 
  2. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13852?af=R 
  3. dating of cosmetics 
  4. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics 
  • What are active ingredients? 
  • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0927776522003599 
  • For this purpose, cosmetic industries use active ingredients with multifunctional properties [4], [5], [6], [7] (antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, …). However, these compounds are generally sensitive to various external factors such as light, temperature, oxygen and pH [5], which can lead to their degradation.  
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Skincare Actives : ‘Freshly Formulated Every Month’…and why this matters so much

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. 

And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. 

One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time.

But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern. 

Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising.  

The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  

Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. 

Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good.

Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  

Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. 

When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  

Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. 

The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. 

The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your personalised skincare goals and concerns. 

The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. 

And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. 

We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. 

There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. 

The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. 

What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

SOURCES

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Winter Skincare Tips: How to Keep Your Skin Happy in Cold Weather

Winter is officially here, out summer wardrobes are packed away and we’re reintroducing our sweaters to the world. 

And it’s not just our wardrobes undergoing a transformation. 

During the cooler months, our skin faces its own set of challenges. Chilly air plus dryness from indoor heat can wreak havoc. In the winter you may find your skin feeling dry, tight, or even painfully cracked. 

Here we’ll delve into the intricate relationship between cold weather and your skin, cover the science behind those changes, and provide essential cold-weather tips and remedies based on your SkinSize™. 

(Don’t know your SkinSize™ yet? Find it here.) 

Read on for methods to keep your skin radiant and healthy in any weather. Say goodbye to winter skin woes and embrace the season with a glowing, well-nourished complexion. 

First, let’s talk all things skin barrier. 

The skin barrier is made up of the outermost cell layer of your skin (aka the stratum corneum). It’s comprised of dead skin cells that are compacted together with ceramides and cholesterol, creating a tight surface. The first layer of cells protects the inner cells from the outside world. 

The skin barrier serves a dual purpose: shielding us from external irritants and preventing the loss of precious moisture that would otherwise evaporate from our skin. 

A good gauge for your skin barrier’s health is the front of your legs. Are they cracked and dry? 

Don’t worry if they are – plenty of people experience this in the winter. It can happen if you forget to moisturise, or if you take a hot shower after coming in from the cold. 

If there’s dryness in the skin on your legs, trust that it’s the same for your face. The skin on your face is extra sensitive to harsh environmental factors, which is why moisturising is so important! 

Most people need to increase their moisturiser use during winter. That goes double if you spend more time outside or live near the sea, where it’s windier.  

If you normally use a light lotion, it might be a good idea to upgrade this to a richer cream moisturiser. Make sure it has ceramides and cholesterol to restore your skin’s barrier. 

What does this mean for your SkinSize™? 

SkinSizes™: 01 / 03 / 05 / 06 / 09 / 10 

If you have one of these types and are prone to acne or rosacea, expect flare-ups during winter. These SkinSizes™ are more sensitive to extreme temperature changes, which triggers an inflammatory response. 

Simply moving from cold weather outside into a hot room can change the vasodilation of your skin. This will lead to more flushing.  

To keep flare-ups at bay, use lots of moisturiser and layer up while outside. When inside, try to keep your distance from the infrared heat that can come from heating systems. 

SkinSizes™: 02/, 04/ 

These are drier skin types, which means switching to a rich moisturiser is best. To avoid clogged pores and ensure maximum hydration, try for creams with humectants rather than occlusive agents. 

At night time, a high quality cleanser is a must. Clogged pores mean that you’re likely using the wrong products. 

If you have acne or rosacea, it won’t necessarily get worse in winter. But like some other SkinSizes™, you may feel the effect of temperature changes. Extreme cold or heat, especially from indoor heating, can cause flushing or trigger flare-ups. 

SkinSizes™: 07/, 08/, 11/, 12/ 

Even with your strong skin barrier, lower sebum levels can lead to an inflammatory response from extreme temperature changes. 

Extra moisturiser and cozier winter layers will keep you protected indoors and out. And don’t get too close to that radiator! 

How else to have healthy skin during winter? 

Here are some extra tips from the Klira dermatology team on how to keep your skin happy during the colder months: 

  1. If your skin is stinging or tender, stop using active products. Increase your moisturiser use and ensure that you are cleansing the skin properly before going back to active treatments. 
  2. Cover up with hats and scarves – but look out for itchy fabric or restrictive material, and remove when indoors. 
  3. Avoid any skincare that contains alcohol, especially exfoliants. 
  4. Never use a physical exfoliant, no matter what the season. 
  5. Prioritise silk as the material for least irritation (silk pillowcases are particularly helpful).