Category: Ingredients

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Tretinoin UK Guide: Benefits for Acne, Photoaging & Youthful Skin

What is Tretinoin? 

Tretinoin, also known as all-trans retinoic acid, is often hailed as the gold standard in skincare. You’ll be hard-pressed these days to find a dermatologist who doesn’t use Tretinoin on their own skin! It’s a prescription-only derivative of Vitamin A, clinically proven to accelerate skin cell turnover, unclog pores, improve fine lines, and fade pigmentation.

Unlike over-the-counter retinoids like retinol and retinal (retinaldehyde), which require conversion within the skin to become active, Tretinoin works in its active form immediately, delivering faster and more effective results.

Over-the-counter options like retinol must first convert into retinal and then into Tretinoin before becoming active. Retinal is one step closer, making it slightly more effective than retinol, but both are still significantly less potent than prescription Tretinoin.

How Does Tretinoin Work on the Skin?

Boosts Collagen

Tretinoin stimulates the production of collagen, the protein responsible for maintaining skin structure and firmness. It has a few mechanisms through which it does this, but one key way is through its stimulation of fibroblasts, which are the primary cells responsible for producing collagen.

With age, collagen levels naturally decline, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. Tretinoin helps to restore collagen levels, enhancing skin elasticity and reducing fine lines. This collagen-boosting effect makes it a core ingredient in many anti-ageing regimens.

Speeds Up Cell Turnover

One of Tretinoin’s primary mechanisms is its ability to accelerate cell turnover. This process sheds dead skin cells faster and promotes the growth of fresh, healthy cells. The result? A smoother, more even skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and pigmentation. This increased turnover also prevents pore blockages, reducing breakouts and congestion.

Reduces Acne and Clogged Pores

Initially formulated for acne treatment, Tretinoin is highly effective at keeping pores clear and reducing inflammation. It works by speeding up cell turnover, helping your skin shed dead cells before they have a chance to clog pores. This process not only treats existing breakouts but also helps to prevent new ones from forming, leaving your skin clearer and smoother over time.

Benefits of Tretinoin for Different Skin Concerns

Anti-Ageing and Wrinkle Reduction

Tretinoin remains one of the most effective topical treatments for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Regular use not only smooths existing lines but also prevents new ones from forming by bolstering skin structure. Long-term application improves skin resilience and firmness, delaying visible signs of ageing.

Hyperpigmentation and Skin Texture

By enhancing cell turnover, Tretinoin helps to fade dark spots and even out skin tone. It also smooths rough patches, leading to a glowy complexion which reflects light more evenly. Over time, consistent use diminishes age spots and sun-induced pigmentation, revealing brighter, more even-toned skin.

Acne Management

As a potent retinoid, Tretinoin effectively reduces acne by preventing clogged pores and minimising inflammation. Studies have shown that it decreases the formation of open and closed comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and reduces inflammatory lesions, making it a preferred choice for dermatologists.

Managing Tretinoin Side Effects

Irritation, Dryness, and Flaking

While highly effective, Tretinoin can cause initial irritation, dryness, and flaking as your skin adjusts. This is a normal part of the process, reflecting its powerful mechanism of action. These effects typically subside with continued use and can be managed with proper hydration and skin barrier-supporting creams.

Safe Use with Moisturisers and SPF

To mitigate irritation, dermatologists recommend pairing Tretinoin with hydrating moisturisers and daily SPF. This helps to protect the skin barrier and minimise sensitivity.

Using broad-spectrum SPF50 sunscreens (or as Dr Emma calls them, ‘radiation filters’) every single day, all year-round, is crucial, as Tretinoin increases photosensitivity. [Although Dr Emma would be the first to tell you that you should be using a radiation filter daily anyway!].

Tretinoin Usage Tips

Starting Slowly

Begin with a low strength and gradually increasing as your skin builds tolerance. This slow introduction helps your skin acclimate, reducing the likelihood of irritation.

Pairing with Barrier-Supporting Ingredients

Supporting Tretinoin with ingredients that fortify the skin barrier can reduce irritation and improve results. Look for hydrating ingredients such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid. 

What to Expect from Pharmacy-Grade Tretinoin

Prescription Tretinoin is available in different formulations, including creams and gels. Strengths typically range from 0.025% to 0.1%, with medical guidance being crucial for achieving optimal results safely. The right formulation often depends on your skin type.

FAQs about Tretinoin

Can I use Tretinoin with other actives?

Yes, but it’s important to be mindful when combining Tretinoin with strong actives like AHAs or BHAs, as this can increase the risk of irritation. Instead, stick to a gentle cleanser, moisturizer, SPF, and a Vitamin C serum for an extra boost.

How long does it take to see results?

A skin cycle – the process where new skin cells move from the bottom layer to the surface – typically takes around 6 weeks. Most Tretinoin users start to see visible improvements within 12 weeks of consistent use (about two skin cycles). After that, the benefits continue to build, and skin health keeps improving over time.

What is Tretinoin used for?

Tretinoin is commonly used to treat acne, reduce signs of aging, fade hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture.

Is long-term use of Tretinoin safe?

Yes, Tretinoin is generally safe for long-term use when monitored by a healthcare provider. However, it’s important to avoid Tretinoin when trying to conceive or during pregnancy. 

Are there side effects from using a Tretinoin prescription?

Some common side effects include dryness, redness, and peeling, especially when you first start using it. These effects usually decrease as your skin adjusts over time.

Tretinoin vs Retinol: What’s the difference?

Tretinoin is a stronger, prescription-only retinoid, while retinol is a milder, over-the-counter option. Tretinoin works faster and more effectively because it doesn’t need to be converted by the skin to become active. In contrast, retinol must first convert into retinal and then into Tretinoin, making it less potent.

References

  1. Kligman AM, Grove GL, Hirose R, Leyden JJ. Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1986;15(4):836–59. Available from: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0190-9622(86)70242-9
  2. Griffiths CE, Russman AN, Majmudar G, Singer RS, Hamilton TA, Voorhees JJ. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). N Engl J Med. 1993;329(8):530–5. Available from: https://doi.org/10.1056/NEJM199308193290803
  3. Schmidt N, Gans EH. Tretinoin: a review of its anti-inflammatory properties in the treatment of acne. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2011;4(11):22.
  4. National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE). Acne vulgaris: topical retinoids. Clinical Knowledge Summaries [Internet]. 2023 [cited 2025 May 22]. Available from: https://cks.nice.org.uk/topics/acne-vulgaris/prescribing-information/topical-retinoids/
  5. Tretinoin for acne. Patient.info [Internet]. 2023 [cited 2025 May 22]. Available from: https://patient.info/medicine/tretinoin-for-acne

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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Using Topical Retinoids in Winter: A No-Nonsense Guide

Winter can be a challenging season for skincare, especially if you’re using topical retinoids. But here’s the key takeaway: consistency is non-negotiable. Retinoids are proven to reduce wrinkles, reverse photo damage, treat acne, and rejuvenate your skin—but only when used daily. Stopping and starting disrupts these benefits, so sticking to your routine is crucial.

Why Consistency Matters

The science behind retinoids is clear: their transformative effects come from consistent use. Studies that showcase their benefits are based on daily application. When you use retinoids consistently, you’re allowing your skin to adjust and fully reap the rewards. While winter might tempt you to pause, doing so could set back your progress.

That said, winter can be hard on your skin. Cold air, low humidity, central heating, and even friction from scarves or coats can compromise your skin barrier, leading to irritation. The solution isn’t to stop but to adjust your routine to protect and support your skin.

Adjusting Your Retinoid Routine in Winter

Keep Applying Your Retinoid Every Day

The golden rule? Don’t skip your retinoid. If you notice irritation—commonly around the nose, chin, or cheeks—it’s fine to temporarily avoid those areas while they recover. But continue applying it to the rest of your face. Some dryness or redness is normal and signals that your retinoid is working. It’s stimulating your skin to renew and behave more youthfully. Embrace these minor discomforts as part of the process.

Support Your Skin Barrier

A strong skin barrier is essential for tolerating retinoids in winter. Here’s how to build a supportive routine:

/01 Choose a Gentle Cleanser

Opt for a hydrating, non-stripping cleanser to avoid exacerbating dryness. Some excellent options include:

  • Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser
  • SVR Topialyse Oil Cleanser
  • Hada Labo Oil Cleanser

/02 Use Moisturiser Strategically

To counter dryness, apply moisturiser either before or after your retinoid:

  • Before: If your skin feels extra dry, use a moisturiser as a buffer before applying the retinoid.
  • After: Apply a generous layer of moisturiser at night after your retinoid.

Recommended moisturisers:

  • La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M
  • CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
  • Aveeno Dermexa

For sensitive skin, try:

  • La Roche-Posay Toleriane Cream
  • Cicaplast Baume AP+M

/03 Reapply Moisturiser During the Day

Harsh winter conditions can dehydrate your skin. Don’t hesitate to reapply a thick layer of moisturiser during the day, especially if you’re spending time outdoors in cold wind or snow. Protect your skin with a scarf as well.

Simplify the Rest of Your Routine

Winter is not the time to overwhelm your skin with active ingredients. Stick to a simple routine:

  • Gentle cleanser
  • Retinoid
  • Rich, soothing moisturiser

Avoid exfoliants or strong acids that could further irritate your skin. A streamlined routine helps your skin better tolerate the retinoid.

Managing Irritation

Even with the best routine, occasional irritation can happen. Here’s how to manage it:

  • Skip Irritated Areas: If certain spots are red or peeling, avoid applying the retinoid there until they settle. Continue using it on the rest of your face.
  • Scale Back Temporarily: If irritation feels excessive, reduce your retinoid application to every other day. Resume daily use as soon as your skin adjusts.
  • Embrace the Process: Minor redness or peeling is a sign the retinoid is working. While severe irritation isn’t ideal, these signs indicate your skin is renewing and improving.

Long-Term Benefits

Retinoids are a long-term investment in your skin. While winter may be challenging, the benefits compound over time. By staying consistent now, you’ll set yourself up for healthier skin when spring arrives. Remember:

  • Use a gentle cleanser.
  • Support your skin barrier with a rich moisturiser.
  • Adjust application as needed but stay consistent.

Your future self will thank you for sticking with your routine. Winter may test your commitment, but with the right adjustments, you can keep your skin on track.

Stay consistent, stay moisturised, and keep going strong. You’ve got this!

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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Understanding Retinol Metabolism

Retinol can be a confusing skincare ingredient, primarily because the term “retinol” is often used interchangeably for all members of the retinoid family. However, not all retinoids are created equal, and understanding the differences between them is key to choosing the right product for your skin. One thing is certain: the retinoid family of ingredients, all derived from Vitamin A, are among the most powerful and scientifically backed ingredients available in skincare. But what makes them so effective? The answer lies in retinol metabolism, the process by which retinol is converted into its most active form, retinoic acid. 

The Retinoid Family 

Before diving into metabolism, let’s clarify the members of the retinoid family. Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from Vitamin A. The most common retinoids used in skincare include: 

  1. Retinol Esters: These are the mildest forms of retinoids, often found in over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products. They are the least irritating but also the least potent. 
  2. Retinol: A stronger form of retinoid, retinol is more effective than retinol esters but can still be found in OTC products. 
  3. Retinaldehyde: Also available OTC, retinaldehyde is even more potent than retinol but is less irritating than prescription forms. 
  4. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): This is the most potent form and is only available via prescription. Retinoic acid works directly on the skin without needing further conversion, making it highly effective for treating various skin concerns, including acne, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. 

The Metabolism Process: From Retinol to Retinoic Acid 

When applied to the skin, retinoids undergo a conversion process to become retinoic acid, the form that your skin cells can use. Here’s a breakdown of the steps: 

  1. Retinol Esters → Retinol: Retinol esters, the least potent form, are first converted into retinol. This step is relatively slow, making retinol esters less irritating but also less effective. 
  2. Retinol → Retinaldehyde: The next step in the conversion process involves the transformation of retinol into retinaldehyde. This form is more potent and closer to retinoic acid, making it more effective but potentially more irritating. 
  3. Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid: The final step is the conversion of retinaldehyde into retinoic acid, the active form that directly affects your skin’s cellular processes. This form is the most effective for stimulating collagen production, speeding up cell turnover, and treating acne and pigmentation. 

Why Retinoic Acid is Prescription-Only 

Retinoic acid, also known as Tretinoin, is highly potent and does not require any conversion in the skin. This direct action makes it extremely effective but also more likely to cause irritation, redness, and peeling, especially in sensitive skin. Due to its strength, retinoic acid is only available via prescription. At Klira, we offer prescription-strength retinoic acid as part of our custom skincare solutions, tailored to your unique skin needs. 

Prescription strength retinoic acid may be included in your Klira formula subject to professional assessment. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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What are actives in skincare?

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time. There’s no fighting against the natural degradation of our products. But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern.  Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising.  The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good. Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your skincare goals and concerns. The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

Exponent sources 

  1. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products 
  2. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13852?af=R 
  3. dating of cosmetics 
  4. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics 
  • What are active ingredients? 
  • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0927776522003599 
  • For this purpose, cosmetic industries use active ingredients with multifunctional properties [4], [5], [6], [7] (antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, …). However, these compounds are generally sensitive to various external factors such as light, temperature, oxygen and pH [5], which can lead to their degradation. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.