ACTIVE

CHOLESTEROL

Cholesterol is a molecule added to help support the skins natural barrier function and as an emollient. It is an essential structural component of cell membranes to maintain strength and fluidity. Cholesterol also functions to repair skin that has been stripped of its natural lipids by things like exfoliating or applying an aggressive anti-aging treatment. Due to its ability to strengthen the skin’s barrier, those with sensitive, and dry skin types will likely benefit most from cholesterol-containing creams.

ACTIVE

AZELAIC ACID

Azelaic acid works by exfoliating the skin, reducing the formation of comedones, as an anti-inflammatory and as an antioxidant. It is a powerhouse of an ingredient that can be used as a reliable treatment for acne, rosacea and pigmentation irregularities. It also works really well with ingredients like Retinoic Acid to help facilitate its absorption.

ACTIVE

CERAMIDES

Ceramides can be used to rebuild and restore the protective skin barrier. They are particularly important when used in conjunction with other ingredients that form the lipid barrier of the skin. Cholesterol, Ceramides, Free fatty Acids. In the ratio 1:2:1 this mimics the natural skin barrier. These ingredients can be particularly helpful at certain times of life where there are hormonal changes, such as menopause.

ACTIVE

GLYCERIN

This is one of the most effective hydrators of the skin. It makes the skin feel dewy, and is a wonderful feeling ingredient. It works as a humectant and attracts water in from the environment. As it is fairly small ingredient it can really penetrate to do the job it needs to do. It is really helpful for sensitive skin, and to protect against harsh environments or ingredients.

ACTIVE

HYALURONIC ACID

This is a molecule that is found naturally in the skin. HA is amazing at bonding with water and therefore plumping and repairing the skin barrier giving the skin a very hydrated look. As it plumps the skin cells it means that any appearance of wrinkles is reduce. It’s a huge molecule so it is not being absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin to do its job but rather when applied topically sits on the surface to plump the outer layer.

ACTIVE

HYDROQUINONE

This is usually a prescription only medication that is very effective at treating melasma, pigmentation irregularity due to inflammation or photodamage. The classic formulation with most evidence is 4% Hydroquinone but other concentrations are used. Like many of the prescription only medicines, this is more than just an “appearance “ of change: the treatment is actually working at the cellular level to reduce the production of pigment, so the effects take several weeks to realize. As the old skin exfoliates, the amount of pigment will be less, leading to a more even skin tone.

ACTIVE

IVERMECTIN

This is a really exciting ingredient that has been used in skincare increasingly over the last decade and is becoming the gold standard treatment for a number of conditions. Topical Ivermectin is an effective treatment for inflammatory papulopustular rosacea in adults. It has dual action as an anti-inflammatory and anti-parasitic effect. Positive therapeutic effects of Ivermectin due to its potential anti-inflammatory properties can be achieved in the other facial dermatoses such as perioral dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis and acne vulgarisms.

ACTIVE

TRETINOIN

Tretinoin (retinoic acid) is a powerful retinoid that speeds up cell turnover, promoting faster division of new skin cells and thickening the epidermis. It boosts hyaluronic acid and collagen production, while also inhibiting collagen breakdown, helping to keep the skin plump and youthful. It also reduces inflammation, making it effective for acne and rosacea.

SYNERGISTIC

ALOE

This is a skin soother it is rich in phytosterols that calm and hydrate, and reduces transepidermal water loss form the skin. It also allows the transfer of active ingredients in a way that doesn’t cause irritation.

SYNERGISTIC

SHEA BUTTER

This is a plant fat and is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids. It contained essential fatty acids (Vitamin F) as well as Vitamin E, D and A. It is a fantastic hydrator of the skin and reduces transepidermal water loss. Fantastic for dry skin conditions and for windy dry season changes.

SYNERGISTIC

CAPRYLIC TRIGLYCERIDE

These are fatty acids made up from coconut oil or palm kernel oil and then combined with glycerin. Used to formulate and help facilitate delivery of ingredients, but actually with additional benefits in that it really hydrates the skin and is an emollient that works really well but never feels too heavy. It has antioxidant properties to neutralise free radical damage. It is also very low risk for causing skin sensitivity.

SYNERGISTIC

COLLAGEN PEPTIDES

Collagen is a protein that when added to skincare is very useful for moisturising the skin. In the hydrolysed form, the peptides are thought to be able to tell the skin to make more collagen – though the evidence for this isn’t quite there yet. It is, however, a great moisturiser that has been shown to reduce the effects of skin-ageing such as dryness and wrinkling, predominantly by increasing water content in the stratum corneum.

SYNERGISTIC

SQUALENE

This is another emollient that has anti-inflammatory properties and supports the skin barrier. Squalene is a lipid that is naturally secreted by the sebaceous gland and is the molecule that stops our skin from drying out. It is predominantly plant sourced and is used to help soften the skin and support the skin when active ingredients are being introduced.