Author: Ronnie Nguyen

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. 

And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. 

One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time.

But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern. 

Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising.  

The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  

Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. 

Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good.

Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  

Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. 

When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  

Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. 

The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. 

The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your skincare goals and concerns. 

The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. 

And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. 

We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. 

There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. 

The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. 

What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

SOURCES

• Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products 
  • • https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13852?af=R 
• Dating of cosmetics 
  • • https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics 
• What are active ingredients? 
  • • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0927776522003599 
    • For this purpose, cosmetic industries use active ingredients with multifunctional properties [4], [5], [6], [7] (antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, …). However, these compounds are generally sensitive to various external factors such as light, temperature, oxygen and pH [5], which can lead to their degradation.  

The beauty industry has plenty to say about addressing midlife skin concerns. In recent years, there’s been a surge in products that claim to fix symptoms associated with perimenopause and menopause. 

It’s natural for our skin to change over time. But this doesn’t always mean we need to revamp our skincare routines. 

We’re going to shed light on the skin changes you can expect during this transformative stage – and why ‘menopause-specific’ products are no silver bullet. 

Understanding the menopause and your skin 

Perimenopause and menopause affect skin just as they do every other part of your body. Oestrogen plays a vital role in maintaining healthy skin. It stimulates the production of oils and hydrating substances like ceramides, sebum, and hyaluronic acid, which protect and moisturise the skin.  

As oestrogen levels decline, skin becomes less capable of retaining moisture. This leads to the common skincare concerns of midlife: dryness, flakiness, and compromised skin barrier integrity. Additionally, the reduction in collagen production may result in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Menopause affects everyone differently. While many women experience dry skin, others will find sudden oiliness and acne. A drop in oestrogen levels leads to a relatively higher ratio of male hormones – which can trigger flare-ups. 

 

Skin beyond the face 

Skin is your largest organ, and what’s on your face makes up about 3% of it. The rest of your skin is equally affected by menopause. 

Areas like the hands, lower legs, back, and genitals can experience changes during this stage. Ageing skin becomes more fragile, which is exacerbated by lowered oestrogen. Over time, you could become more prone to bruising, and notice that wounds heal more slowly. 

Do I need skincare products specific to menopause? 

Products marketed for ‘menopausal skin’ are everywhere these days. Despite skin changes during menopause, we can assure you that any radical skincare reinvention isn’t needed. Menopause is not a skin type! 

You may want to consider small changes to boost collagen or reduce some signs ageing. In that case, bespoke skincare like the Klira Special may help. 

The key is ingredients, not marketing. Stay focused on products’ active ingredients, and what benefits they offer, to complement what you’re already using. 

​​​Klira offers a personalised approach to skincare, with precise prescription formulations tailored to your skin’s unique needs. Our advanced ​​SkinSize™ test and dermatology team help create a custom skincare regimen to promote optimal skin health, regardless of your life stage. 

 

Summer is long gone, but now isn’t the time to start slacking on SPF application. SPF isn’t just about preventing sunburn in hot weather. It’s also meant to protect your skin from premature ageing and the risk of skin cancer. 

Daily SPF use is recommended for everyone. However, there’s some nuance to the kind of products you’ll need, depending on your SkinSize™. We’ll go over how to find the best SPF for you, and how to ensure your skin stays healthy and protected all year long. 

How do you apply SPF properly? 

Apply SPF first thing in the morning. You need about one teaspoon of SPF to cover your face, neck and decolletage. 

To reduce pilling and get a more even coverage, Dr Emma, Consultant Dermatologist and Founder of Klira, recommends applying your SPF in two layers. Simply apply the first layer, wait for it to absorb, and then apply the second layer.  

This way, you can go about your day without having to reapply SPF over your make-up. (Unless you’re outside all day or sweating; then it’s time to add another layer.) 

How to find a good quality SPF? 

We know that an intensely saturated skincare market can make it hard to find the right products (exactly why we created Klira). 

To get the right product, Dr Emma breaks down some key signs of a quality SPF in the video below: 

How does sun damage affect your SkinSize™? 

SkinSizes™: 01 / 02 / 03 / 04 / 05 / 06 / 09 / 10 

These SkinSizes™ are prone to having a weak skin barrier. UV radiation from the sun is more likely to trigger inflammation and redness in your skin. If at first it seems the sun is clearing your skin, just wait – it will actually be making it worse! 

After UV radiation exposure, your skin can also experience a sensitivity to chemicals, known as photosensitisation. At this point, products like perfumes or fragranced skincare might cause irritation. 

SkinSizes™: 07/ 08/ 

Your SkinSize™ has a greater ability to tan – which can cause problems down the line. 

Excess sebum and pigmentation make the skin appear healthy and p 

rotected earlier on. But with age, photodamage from the sun will become more visible. 

You might notice these signs starting with a sensitivity to certain sunscreens. Without adequate SPF protection, you’ll start to get an uneven skin tone and wrinkles. 

​​​Your Skinsize will also have a tendency to dark spots, melasma and other forms of uneven pigmentation with UV exposure. This is all down to how your body produces melanin. Regularly applying a good quality, broad spectrum SPF can significantly reduce your risk of all these skin concerns. 

SkinSizes™: 11 / 12 

Your SkinSize™ has low sebum and less natural protection against UV light. As a consequence, your skin’s collagen is more likely to become damaged. 

Compared to other SkinSizes™, yours is at earlier risk of photodamage, fine lines, and wrinkles. Regular use of an SPF is critical to protecting your skin. 

However, most SPF products will work well with your skin, keeping it hydrated and protected from harmful UV damage. 

Extra tips from the Klira Dermatology team 

• For those with darker skin tones, avoid SPFs with a lot of zinc oxide or titanium oxide. These can have an unwanted ‘chalky’ effect on your skin. 
• If you have a lighter skin tone, avoid tinted sunscreens. The different filters may not be tolerated by your skin type. 

Winter is officially here, out summer wardrobes are packed away and we’re reintroducing our sweaters to the world. 

And it’s not just our wardrobes undergoing a transformation. 

During the cooler months, our skin faces its own set of challenges. Chilly air plus dryness from indoor heat can wreak havoc. In the winter you may find your skin feeling dry, tight, or even painfully cracked. 

Here we’ll delve into the intricate relationship between cold weather and your skin, cover the science behind those changes, and provide essential cold-weather tips and remedies based on your SkinSize™. 

(Don’t know your SkinSize™ yet? Find it ​here.) 

Read on for methods to keep your skin radiant and healthy in any weather. Say goodbye to winter skin woes and embrace the season with a glowing, well-nourished complexion. 

First, let’s talk all things skin barrier. 

The skin barrier is made up of the outermost cell layer of your skin (aka the stratum corneum). It’s comprised of dead skin cells that are compacted together with ceramides and cholesterol, creating a tight surface. The first layer of cells protects the inner cells from the outside world. 

The skin barrier serves a dual purpose: shielding us from external irritants and preventing the loss of precious moisture that would otherwise evaporate from our skin. 

A good gauge for your skin barrier’s health is the front of your legs. Are they cracked and dry? 

Don’t worry if they are – plenty of people experience this in the winter. It can happen if you forget to moisturise, or if you take a hot shower after coming in from the cold. 

If there’s dryness in the skin on your legs, trust that it’s the same for your face. The skin on your face is extra sensitive to harsh environmental factors, which is why moisturising is so important! 

Most people need to increase their moisturiser use during winter. That goes double if you spend more time outside or live near the sea, where it’s windier.  

If you normally use a light lotion, it might be a good idea to upgrade this to a richer cream moisturiser. Make sure it has ceramides and cholesterol to restore your skin’s barrier. 

What does this mean for your SkinSize™? 

SkinSizes™: 01 / 03 / 05 / 06 / 09 / 10 

If you have one of these types and are prone to acne or rosacea, expect flare-ups during winter. These SkinSizes™ are more sensitive to extreme temperature changes, which triggers an inflammatory response. 

Simply moving from cold weather outside into a hot room can change the vasodilation of your skin. This will lead to more flushing.  

To keep flare-ups at bay, use lots of moisturiser and layer up while outside. When inside, try to keep your distance from the infrared heat that can come from heating systems. 

SkinSizes™: 02/, 04/ 

These are drier skin types, which means switching to a rich moisturiser is best. To avoid clogged pores and ensure maximum hydration, try for creams with humectants rather than occlusive agents. 

At night time, a high quality cleanser is a must. Clogged pores mean that you’re likely using the wrong products. 

If you have acne or rosacea, it won’t necessarily get worse in winter. But like some other SkinSizes™, you may feel the effect of temperature changes. Extreme cold or heat, especially from indoor heating, can cause flushing or trigger flare-ups. 

SkinSizes™: 07/, 08/, 11/, 12/ 

Even with your strong skin barrier, lower sebum levels can lead to an inflammatory response from extreme temperature changes. 

Extra moisturiser and cozier winter layers will keep you protected indoors and out. And don’t get too close to that radiator! 

How else to have healthy skin during winter? 

Here are some extra tips from the Klira dermatology team on how to keep your skin happy during the colder months: 

1. If your skin is stinging or tender, stop using active products. Increase your moisturiser use and ensure that you are cleansing the skin properly before going back to active treatments. 
2. Cover up with hats and scarves – but look out for itchy fabric or restrictive material, and remove when indoors. 
3. Avoid any skincare that contains alcohol, especially exfoliants. 
4. Never use a physical exfoliant, no matter what the season. 
5. Prioritise silk as the material for least irritation (silk pillowcases are particularly helpful).