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What are actives in skincare?

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. 

And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. 

One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time. There’s no fighting against the natural degradation of our products. 

But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern. 

Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising.  

The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  

Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. 

Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good.

Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  

Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. 

When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  

Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. 

The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. 

The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your skincare goals and concerns. 

The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. 

And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. 

We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. 

There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. 

The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. 

What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

Exponent sources 

  1. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products 
  2. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13852?af=R 
  3. dating of cosmetics 
  4. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics 
  • What are active ingredients? 
  • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0927776522003599 
  • For this purpose, cosmetic industries use active ingredients with multifunctional properties [4], [5], [6], [7] (antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, …). However, these compounds are generally sensitive to various external factors such as light, temperature, oxygen and pH [5], which can lead to their degradation.  
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Spring clean your skincare

Just when we thought we would never see the end of winter, spring is finally in sight.  

Before we break out the t-shirts here are a few end of winter tips for your skin.  

Checked your expired SPF 

If you are someone who does not wear sunscreen all year round (talk to us please!) the NHS advises you should definitely be wearing it from March until October.  With March just a few weeks away check your sunscreen’s use by date. Most sunscreens have a shelf life of two to three years, but check your bottle and the period after opening symbol. If it has been in the bottom of your beach bag for a while, you may want to consider a fresh one. 

Don’t forget your lips & cuticles!   

Winter weather can really affect lips and cuticles, and sometimes these areas get neglected. Walking outside in wet, blistery weather or hitting the slopes can lead to cracked, chapped lips and ragged cuticles. A rich balm or Vaseline can help restore moisture balance in dry cracked areas. 

Shaving tips 

For some of you shaving may be on a legs-out-only basis. So if you are gearing up for the Big Spring Shave before shorts season, we are not here to judge, just some tips to keep in mind. Change your razor blade regularly and make sure it is clean, don’t dry shave, and make sure to moisturise soon after to prevent irritation.  

Emerge into the spring sun… carefully!  

Most people are so excited with the first sun makes an appearance there is no holding them back. Whether we are lucky enough to see a single British ray or escape for a sunny winter break, be prepared! 

Sudden exposures to drastic temperature changes are when burns and sun hives are most likely to happen. 

They catch you unaware and you can end up with a blistery burn, which can really increase your risk of skin cancer. So get out there, enjoy yourself, but protect yourself.  

Embrace humectants 

Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides in your skincare products. These humectants attract and retain moisture, leaving your skin feeling plump and hydrated. (spoiler alert: you will find quite a few humectants in your Klira special). 

Get your own bespoke KLIRA formula by taking the SkinSize™ test.