Author: Trung Nguyen

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EU retinol ban: does it affect your skincare?

You may have heard talk of the EU retinol ban and wondered what it means for your Klira Special. Rest assured, your Klira is safe!

Vitamin A is an amazing ingredient in topical skincare, but there’s often confusion around its different forms. Tretinoin (also known as Retinoic-Acid) is the gold standard of Vitamin A and has always been available only by prescription in the UK. It’s the most well-evidenced retinoid approved for the treatment of photodamage and acne, which in turn has many other skincare benefits. That’s why we use it in our Klira Specials.

Tretinoin changes how a cell functions by speeding up the turnover of older cells and encouraging newer skin cells to divide more rapidly, building up the layers of the epidermis and thickening it through cell proliferation at the top level. It also increases the production of hyaluronic acid, keeping the skin more plump. Additionally, it stimulates collagen production and importantly inhibits the breakdown of collagen. Tretinoin is also crucial in reducing inflammatory pathways in the skin that can contribute to acne and rosacea.

Ultimately, Tretinoin needs to be administered under the guidance of medical professionals. This is the team we have at Klira.

The EU retinol regulations target over-the-counter cosmeceutical retinol. While retinol is not as powerful as Tretinoin, incorrect use of the product can cause damage and irritation to the skin. The EU’s new regulations are aimed at ensuring consumers do not have access to an ingredient that can cause undue risk without medical guidance. We welcome these regulations. Too often, we have new customers coming to us with damaged skin barriers due to the incorrect use of products and following trends.

At Klira, we’re serious about your skin and feel passionately about having medical professionals who can navigate the best ingredients for you. Unlike off-the-shelf skincare, your Klira Special formula is carefully dosed and controlled by our team of Dermatologists to ensure your skin receives the most optimised ingredients bespoke to your skin’s needs.

Dr. Emma Craythorne

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Perioral Dermatitis: Essential Tips and Treatments

By Dr Cristina Psomadakis

What is Perioral Dermatitis? 

You might think little red pus-filled bumps around your chin and mouth means acne, but in fact you could have a condition known as perioral dermatitis. Perioral dermatitis, also called periorificial dermatitis, is often mistaken as acne, or even a rash requiring steroids, but the treatments are quite different! 

Understanding perioral dermatitis 

It primarily affects the areas around the mouth, nose, and sometimes the eyes and causes red, bumpy, and often itchy or burning patches and bumps (papules and pustules). No one quite knows what causes perioral dermatitis, but here are some common triggers you should be aware of: 

  1. Topical and inhaled steroids. People who require steroid inhalers for conditions like asthma can get perioral dermatitis, and sometimes people are incorrectly prescribed topical steroids when the condition first starts, which in fact can make it worse.  
  2. Fluoride in toothpaste and mouthwashes. Some people find their perioral dermatitis improves when the switch to fluoride-free oral hygiene products.  
  3. Heavy occlusive cosmetic products. Very thick, greasy facial products can make it worse in some.  
  4. Genetics can make you more prone to it. 

Basic skincare tips for perioral dermatitis 

The good news is that there are treatments available! The absolute key is to make sure to get the diagnosis correct and identify the condition correctly. At Klira we can assist with identifying and treating perioral dermatitis. Here are the main steps in managing perioral dermatitis: 

  1. It is crucial to recognise and then avoid your triggers 
  2. Use gentle, fragrance free skincare and a simple routine without too many products 
  3. You may require prescribed medical therapy; this can include topical or oral antibiotics 
  4. Resist the urge to pick or pop your spots 
  5. Protect your skin from harsh weather conditions  
  6. Manage stress levels 

Perioral dermatitis can be challenging to experience and manage but is a treatable condition with the right approach. Understanding your triggers and symptoms, along with adhering to a tailored treatment plan, can lead to significant improvement and  Klira are here to help. 

Further research on perioral dermatitis 

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40257-014-0067-7  

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.14060 

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Introducing The Body Special

By Dr Emma Craythorne  

Facial skincare is the priority for most people I see in my private practice. It is the area of the body that has had most UV exposure and that is reflected in many of the changes we see on the skin at this site. Our faces give people the first impression of us, they are always on show, the focus of conversations that we have, and usually in photographs that capture a moment. But there are other parts of our body that are also always on show, yet rarely get the same care and attention that we put into the skin on our face.  

I’m talking about our hands and chest. Whilst we are protecting the skin on our face, these areas have often taken a back seat in how we care for them and its usually only when the first signs of that damage occur is when we want to do something about it. What tends to bother the people I see in my clinic about this is the imbalance that starts to become noticeable. What many people want is to undo that damage and enjoy skin that is as healthy, clear, firm and radiant on their hands and chest as the skin on their faces (that they have earned with good daily treatment and sun protection).   

The signs of UV-induced ageing on the skin of the hands and chest are the same in both places.  The first sign is lost elasticity and ‘bounce’. If you gently pinch together the skin in these area it starts to wrinkle more  easily, and become “crepey”.  

The second sign is solar lentigines (also known as brown spots or age spots) appearing. They can start as quite subtle light brown ‘splodges’ but as the damage continues to come through over the years they get darker and larger.  

These signs of ageing in the skin are as a direct result of years of over exposure to UV. Our hands are almost always exposed, and the skin of the decolletage is impacted by UVA not only on the areas directly exposed but through thin layers of clothing also.   

Whilst the signs of ageing are the same in both these areas, and therefore the most effective treatments are the same, they can be very difficult to deliver – albeit for different reasons.  Our hands are in use so much of the time and SPF if applied diligently in the morning can often be washed away with handwashing. The skin on our hands and chest are more prone to irritation, the skin here is thinner than you think and in some people not too dissimilar as the skin in the delicate eye area. Harsh chemicals that can be often used on the face start to cause irritation to the skin on the hands and chest, due to rubbing of clothes or handwashing, or thinness of skin. 

In order to specifically address all of this I’ve created The Body Special. This is a precision-targeted cream for the chest and hands to expertly tackle visible signs of ageing caused by sun damage and collagen depletion in one simple step.  

This formula contains the most well-evidenced active ingredients combined with skin conditioning ingredients in a base with reduced preservatives which means it is tolerated by even really sensitive skin. Therefore we can effectively treat the skin on the chest and skin on the hands in a single step with a formula that is powerful enough to deliver positive visible change in these areas. This formula has been 3 years in the making and is the combination of expert medicine, dermatology, and pharmaceuticals.   

Order your Body Special

Key Ingredients  

The cream is built around a perfectly balanced ratio – 10-4-2 – with actives working on different cellular pathways to tackle pigmentation, oxidative stress, hydration and collagen depletion.    

10% azelaic acid supresses overactive melanocytes to visibly reduce age spots and stop new ones from forming, whilst also acting as an anti-oxidant to reduce future cellular damage   

4% Niacinamide regulates melanin production while supporting the skin to repair signs of past damage.   

2% Kojic Acid effectively reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin. Additionally, it works as an antioxidant to counteract the free radical damage prompted by daily sun exposure.   

A combination of hydrolysed collagen peptides, cholesterol, squalene and ceramides nourish the skin barrier to support optimum skin health.    

Together, these ingredients working in synergy deliver skin that is reduced of pigmentation, soft, smooth, and radiant.    

The formulation itself is luxurious to apply with a cream-to-serum texture that is instantly absorbed, leaving only a sensation of beautifully moisturised skin.  

Is it suitable for my SkinSize™? 

The skin on our hands and chest is not as nuanced as that on our faces, and the UV-induced ageing related concerns that we are treating are universal, and so we’ve been able to formulate The Body Special for all SkinSizes™. It is therefore SkinSize™ neutral and we’ve called this SkinSize™ 00.  

How to apply?  

The Body Special is not a lotion for lathering on. It is a precision targeted treatment for the chest and hands. The cream-to-serum formula should be applied as the final step of your evening routine.   

First gently cleanse the areas. Pat your skin dry. Then apply 2 pumps to the chest and 1 pump to the back of each hand, focusing on any visible age spots. If you’d like to extend treatment then you can also take it up the arms, or on to the shoulders with additional pumps.   

We recommend doing this routine after your facial skincare routine so you don’t spread the active ingredients into sensitive areas of the face. With daily use you will see positive results in 12 weeks.  

Order your Body Special

CLINICAL TRIAL & EVIDENCE 

The Body Special Clinical Trial  

  • 100% of candidates noticed an improvement in their skin texture and 83% noticed a good – excellent improvement. 
  • In those with unwanted pigmentation (age spots),100% of test candidates noted a good to excellent improvement and 30% had a dramatic improvement. 
  • 100% of candidates felt their skin to be more rejuvenated and 83% felt their hands and chest skin were dramatically more rejuvenated. 
  • Skin turgor and elasticity was noted to improve in 100% of candidates. 

12 candidates, daily use for 3 months, January-March 2024 

Evidence for active ingredients 

KOJIC ACID 

Kojic Acid is a tyrosinase kinase inhibitor meaning that it blocks the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. By regulating this activity in overactive cells, it can reduce unwanted pigmentation. 

Kojic acid reduces skin discoloration by increasing skin brightness in 75% of patients tested, reducing skin contrast in approximately 83% and increasing skin homogeneity in approximately 67% of patients. 

12 patients J Clin Med. 2023 Apr; 12(7): 2710 

NIACINAMIDE 

4% Niacinamide induces a decrease in pigmentation, inflammatory infiltrate, and solar elastosis.  

RCT data 27 patients Dermatol Res Pract. 2011; 2011: 37917 

AZELAIC ACID 

Azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results in reduction of unwanted hyperpigmentation  

RCT data 329  patients – Int J Dermatol. 1991 Dec;30(12):893-5 

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What are actives in skincare?

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. 

And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. 

One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time. There’s no fighting against the natural degradation of our products. 

But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern. 

Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising.  

The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  

Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. 

Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good.

Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  

Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. 

When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  

Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. 

The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. 

The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your skincare goals and concerns. 

The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. 

And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. 

We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. 

There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. 

The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. 

What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

Exponent sources 

  1. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products 
  2. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13852?af=R 
  3. dating of cosmetics 
  4. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics 
  • What are active ingredients? 
  • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0927776522003599 
  • For this purpose, cosmetic industries use active ingredients with multifunctional properties [4], [5], [6], [7] (antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, …). However, these compounds are generally sensitive to various external factors such as light, temperature, oxygen and pH [5], which can lead to their degradation.