Dr Emma Craythorne

Emma Craythorne is a Consultant Dermatologist, Trustee for the Cosmetic Practice Standards Authority and ex-President of the British Cosmetic Dermatology Group. Dr Emma is well known for her TV series – The Bad Skin Clinic – her renowned private practice, and NHS work.
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The Essential Guide to Understanding and Boosting Collagen

What is Collagen? 

Collagen is a vital protein that plays a critical role in maintaining the structural integrity of our skin, muscles, bones, cartilage, and hair. Often referred to as the “scaffolding” of the body, collagen provides the framework that keeps our skin firm, elastic, and youthful. There are about 28 different types of collagen, but Type I collagen is the most abundant in our skin, accounting for approximately 80-90% of our skin’s collagen content. 

As we age, our body’s natural collagen production begins to decline, typically starting in our mid-20s. This decrease in collagen leads to signs of ageing such as fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, and reduced skin elasticity. Understanding how collagen works and how to boost its production can help maintain youthful skin and overall skin health. 

How to Boost Collagen Production 

Maintaining or even boosting collagen levels as we age is possible through a combination of dietary choices, topical skincare products, and certain dermatological procedures. Here are some effective ways to support collagen production:

Dietary Changes

What you eat plays a significant role in your skin’s health and its ability to produce collagen. A balanced diet rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals can provide the building blocks necessary for collagen synthesis. 

  • Protein-Rich Foods: Foods like chicken breast, fish, egg whites, and bone broth are excellent sources of the amino acids needed for collagen production. These foods contain glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline, which are essential components of collagen. 
  • Vitamin C: This powerful antioxidant is crucial for collagen synthesis. It helps stabilise the collagen molecule and provides protection against damage. Foods rich in Vitamin C, such as bell peppers, citrus fruits, strawberries, and kiwi, should be a staple in your diet. 
  • Limited Sugar Intake: High sugar intake can lead to glycation, a process where sugar molecules attach to collagen fibres, making them stiff and brittle. Reducing sugar consumption can help maintain healthy collagen levels. 
  • Collagen Supplements: While the jury is still out on whether collagen supplements provide benefits beyond those of a balanced diet, some studies suggest that they may improve skin elasticity and hydration. If you choose to take supplements, look for hydrolyzed collagen, which is easier for the body to absorb. 

Topical Skincare Products

Certain skincare ingredients are known to boost collagen production and protect existing collagen from degradation: 

  • Retinoids: Members of the retinoid family, including retinol and Tretinoin, are proven to stimulate collagen production. They work by increasing cell turnover and promoting the synthesis of new collagen.  Tretinoin can be prescribed in your Klira formula should the Dermatology team see fit. 
  • Vitamin C: Topical Vitamin C serums can penetrate the skin to stimulate collagen production and neutralise free radicals that damage collagen. Using Vitamin C in your daily skincare routine can help maintain firm, youthful skin. 
  • Niacinamide: Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide can support collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It’s a versatile ingredient that can be easily incorporated into most skincare routines. 

Dermatological Procedures

Certain in-office treatments can significantly boost collagen production by stimulating the skin’s natural healing processes: 

  • Microneedling: This procedure involves tiny needles that create micro-injuries in the skin, triggering the production of new collagen as the skin heals. It’s effective for improving skin texture, reducing scars, and minimising fine lines. 
  • Radiofrequency: This treatment uses energy waves to heat the deep layers of the skin, stimulating collagen production and tightening the skin. It’s a non-invasive option for those looking to improve skin laxity. 
  • Laser Treatments: Lasers can target specific layers of the skin to encourage collagen production. Depending on the type of laser used, this treatment can improve everything from fine lines to skin tone and texture. 
  • Injectable Fillers: Some fillers, particularly those containing hyaluronic acid, can stimulate collagen production in addition to providing immediate volume. This dual action helps improve skin elasticity and firmness over time. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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Understanding Retinol Metabolism

Retinol can be a confusing skincare ingredient, primarily because the term “retinol” is often used interchangeably for all members of the retinoid family. However, not all retinoids are created equal, and understanding the differences between them is key to choosing the right product for your skin. One thing is certain: the retinoid family of ingredients, all derived from Vitamin A, are among the most powerful and scientifically backed ingredients available in skincare. But what makes them so effective? The answer lies in retinol metabolism, the process by which retinol is converted into its most active form, retinoic acid. 

The Retinoid Family 

Before diving into metabolism, let’s clarify the members of the retinoid family. Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from Vitamin A. The most common retinoids used in skincare include: 

  1. Retinol Esters: These are the mildest forms of retinoids, often found in over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products. They are the least irritating but also the least potent. 
  2. Retinol: A stronger form of retinoid, retinol is more effective than retinol esters but can still be found in OTC products. 
  3. Retinaldehyde: Also available OTC, retinaldehyde is even more potent than retinol but is less irritating than prescription forms. 
  4. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): This is the most potent form and is only available via prescription. Retinoic acid works directly on the skin without needing further conversion, making it highly effective for treating various skin concerns, including acne, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. 

The Metabolism Process: From Retinol to Retinoic Acid 

When applied to the skin, retinoids undergo a conversion process to become retinoic acid, the form that your skin cells can use. Here’s a breakdown of the steps: 

  1. Retinol Esters → Retinol: Retinol esters, the least potent form, are first converted into retinol. This step is relatively slow, making retinol esters less irritating but also less effective. 
  2. Retinol → Retinaldehyde: The next step in the conversion process involves the transformation of retinol into retinaldehyde. This form is more potent and closer to retinoic acid, making it more effective but potentially more irritating. 
  3. Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid: The final step is the conversion of retinaldehyde into retinoic acid, the active form that directly affects your skin’s cellular processes. This form is the most effective for stimulating collagen production, speeding up cell turnover, and treating acne and pigmentation. 

Why Retinoic Acid is Prescription-Only 

Retinoic acid, also known as Tretinoin, is highly potent and does not require any conversion in the skin. This direct action makes it extremely effective but also more likely to cause irritation, redness, and peeling, especially in sensitive skin. Due to its strength, retinoic acid is only available via prescription. At Klira, we offer prescription-strength retinoic acid as part of our custom skincare solutions, tailored to your unique skin needs. 

Prescription strength retinoic acid may be included in your Klira formula subject to professional assessment. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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EU retinol ban: does it affect your skincare?

You may have heard talk of the EU retinol ban and wondered what it means for your Klira Special. Rest assured, your Klira is safe!

Vitamin A is an amazing ingredient in topical skincare, but there’s often confusion around its different forms. Tretinoin (also known as Retinoic-Acid) is the gold standard of Vitamin A and has always been available only by prescription in the UK. It’s the most well-evidenced retinoid approved for the treatment of photodamage and acne, which in turn has many other skincare benefits. That’s why we use it in our Klira Specials.

Tretinoin changes how a cell functions by speeding up the turnover of older cells and encouraging newer skin cells to divide more rapidly, building up the layers of the epidermis and thickening it through cell proliferation at the top level. It also increases the production of hyaluronic acid, keeping the skin more plump. Additionally, it stimulates collagen production and importantly inhibits the breakdown of collagen. Tretinoin is also crucial in reducing inflammatory pathways in the skin that can contribute to acne and rosacea.

Ultimately, Tretinoin needs to be administered under the guidance of medical professionals. This is the team we have at Klira.

The EU retinol regulations target over-the-counter cosmeceutical retinol. While retinol is not as powerful as Tretinoin, incorrect use of the product can cause damage and irritation to the skin. The EU’s new regulations are aimed at ensuring consumers do not have access to an ingredient that can cause undue risk without medical guidance. We welcome these regulations. Too often, we have new customers coming to us with damaged skin barriers due to the incorrect use of products and following trends.

At Klira, we’re serious about your skin and feel passionately about having medical professionals who can navigate the best ingredients for you. Unlike off-the-shelf skincare, your Klira Special formula is carefully dosed and controlled by our team of Dermatologists to ensure your skin receives the most optimised ingredients bespoke to your skin’s needs.

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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Introducing The Body Special

Facial skincare is the priority for most people I see in my private practice. It is the area of the body that has had most UV exposure and that is reflected in many of the changes we see on the skin at this site. Our faces give people the first impression of us, they are always on show, the focus of conversations that we have, and usually in photographs that capture a moment. But there are other parts of our body that are also always on show, yet rarely get the same care and attention that we put into the skin on our face.  

I’m talking about our hands and chest. Whilst we are protecting the skin on our face, these areas have often taken a back seat in how we care for them and its usually only when the first signs of that damage occur is when we want to do something about it. What tends to bother the people I see in my clinic about this is the imbalance that starts to become noticeable. What many people want is to undo that damage and enjoy skin that is as healthy, clear, firm and radiant on their hands and chest as the skin on their faces (that they have earned with good daily treatment and sun protection).   

The signs of UV-induced ageing on the skin of the hands and chest are the same in both places.  The first sign is lost elasticity and ‘bounce’. If you gently pinch together the skin in these area it starts to wrinkle more  easily, and become “crepey”.  

The second sign is solar lentigines (also known as brown spots or age spots) appearing. They can start as quite subtle light brown ‘splodges’ but as the damage continues to come through over the years they get darker and larger.  

These signs of ageing in the skin are as a direct result of years of over exposure to UV. Our hands are almost always exposed, and the skin of the decolletage is impacted by UVA not only on the areas directly exposed but through thin layers of clothing also.   

Whilst the signs of ageing are the same in both these areas, and therefore the most effective treatments are the same, they can be very difficult to deliver – albeit for different reasons.  Our hands are in use so much of the time and SPF if applied diligently in the morning can often be washed away with handwashing. The skin on our hands and chest are more prone to irritation, the skin here is thinner than you think and in some people not too dissimilar as the skin in the delicate eye area. Harsh chemicals that can be often used on the face start to cause irritation to the skin on the hands and chest, due to rubbing of clothes or handwashing, or thinness of skin. 

In order to specifically address all of this I’ve created The Body Special. This is a precision-targeted cream for the chest and hands to expertly tackle visible signs of ageing caused by sun damage and collagen depletion in one simple step.  

This formula contains the most well-evidenced active ingredients combined with skin conditioning ingredients in a base with reduced preservatives which means it is tolerated by even really sensitive skin. Therefore we can effectively treat the skin on the chest and skin on the hands in a single step with a formula that is powerful enough to deliver positive visible change in these areas. This formula has been 3 years in the making and is the combination of expert medicine, dermatology, and pharmaceuticals.   

Order your Body Special

Key Ingredients  

  • The cream is built around a perfectly balanced ratio – 10-4-2 – with actives working on different cellular pathways to tackle pigmentation, oxidative stress, hydration and collagen depletion.    
  • 10% azelaic acid supresses overactive melanocytes to visibly reduce age spots and stop new ones from forming, whilst also acting as an anti-oxidant to reduce future cellular damage   
  • 4% Niacinamide regulates melanin production while supporting the skin to repair signs of past damage.   
  • 2% Kojic Acid effectively reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin. Additionally, it works as an antioxidant to counteract the free radical damage prompted by daily sun exposure.   
  • A combination of hydrolysed collagen peptides, cholesterol, squalene and ceramides nourish the skin barrier to support optimum skin health.    
  • Together, these ingredients working in synergy deliver skin that is reduced of pigmentation, soft, smooth, and radiant.    
  • The formulation itself is luxurious to apply with a cream-to-serum texture that is instantly absorbed, leaving only a sensation of beautifully moisturised skin.  

Is it suitable for my SkinSize™? 

The skin on our hands and chest is not as nuanced as that on our faces, and the UV-induced ageing related concerns that we are treating are universal, and so we’ve been able to formulate The Body Special for all SkinSizes™. It is therefore SkinSize™ neutral and we’ve called this SkinSize™ 00.  

How to apply?  

  • The Body Special is not a lotion for lathering on. It is a precision targeted treatment for the chest and hands. The cream-to-serum formula should be applied as the final step of your evening routine.   
  • First gently cleanse the areas. Pat your skin dry. Then apply 2 pumps to the chest and 1 pump to the back of each hand, focusing on any visible age spots. If you’d like to extend treatment then you can also take it up the arms, or on to the shoulders with additional pumps.   
  • We recommend doing this routine after your facial skincare routine so you don’t spread the active ingredients into sensitive areas of the face. With daily use you will see positive results in 12 weeks.  

Order your Body Special

CLINICAL TRIAL & EVIDENCE 

The Body Special Clinical Trial  

  • 100% of candidates noticed an improvement in their skin texture and 83% noticed a good – excellent improvement. 
  • In those with unwanted pigmentation (age spots),100% of test candidates noted a good to excellent improvement and 30% had a dramatic improvement. 
  • 100% of candidates felt their skin to be more rejuvenated and 83% felt their hands and chest skin were dramatically more rejuvenated. 
  • Skin turgor and elasticity was noted to improve in 100% of candidates. 

12 candidates, daily use for 3 months, January-March 2024 

Evidence for active ingredients 

KOJIC ACID 

  • Kojic Acid is a tyrosinase kinase inhibitor meaning that it blocks the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. By regulating this activity in overactive cells, it can reduce unwanted pigmentation. 
  • Kojic acid reduces skin discoloration by increasing skin brightness in 75% of patients tested, reducing skin contrast in approximately 83% and increasing skin homogeneity in approximately 67% of patients. 
  • 12 patients J Clin Med. 2023 Apr; 12(7): 2710 

NIACINAMIDE 

  • 4% Niacinamide induces a decrease in pigmentation, inflammatory infiltrate, and solar elastosis.  
  • RCT data 27 patients Dermatol Res Pract. 2011; 2011: 37917 

AZELAIC ACID 

  • Azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results in reduction of unwanted hyperpigmentation  
  • RCT data 329  patients – Int J Dermatol. 1991 Dec;30(12):893-5

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

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Menopause Skin Care: “Menopause is not a Skin Type – A Manifesto”

The beauty industry has plenty to say about addressing midlife skin concerns. In recent years, there’s been a surge in products that claim to fix symptoms associated with perimenopause and menopause. 

It’s natural for our skin to change over time. But this doesn’t always mean we need to revamp our skincare routines. 

We’re going to shed light on the skin changes you can expect during this transformative stage – and why ‘menopause-specific’ products are no silver bullet. 

Understanding the menopause and your skin 

Perimenopause and menopause affect skin just as they do every other part of your body. Oestrogen plays a vital role in maintaining healthy skin. It stimulates the production of oils and hydrating substances like ceramides, sebum, and hyaluronic acid, which protect and moisturise the skin.  

As oestrogen levels decline, skin becomes less capable of retaining moisture. This leads to the common skincare concerns of midlife: dryness, flakiness, and compromised skin barrier integrity. Additionally, the reduction in collagen production may result in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Menopause affects everyone differently. While many women experience dry skin, others will find sudden oiliness and acne. A drop in oestrogen levels leads to a relatively higher ratio of male hormones – which can trigger flare-ups. 

 

Skin beyond the face 

Skin is your largest organ, and what’s on your face makes up about 3% of it. The rest of your skin is equally affected by menopause. 

Areas like the hands, lower legs, back, and genitals can experience changes during this stage. Ageing skin becomes more fragile, which is exacerbated by lowered oestrogen. Over time, you could become more prone to bruising, and notice that wounds heal more slowly. 

Do I need skincare products specific to menopause? 

Products marketed for ‘menopausal skin’ are everywhere these days. Despite skin changes during menopause, we can assure you that any radical skincare reinvention isn’t needed. Menopause is not a skin type! 

You may want to consider small changes to boost collagen or reduce some signs ageing. In that case, bespoke skincare like the Klira Special may help. 

The key is ingredients, not marketing. Stay focused on products’ active ingredients, and what benefits they offer, to complement what you’re already using. 

​​​Klira offers a personalised skincare approach to, with precise prescription formulations tailored to your skin’s unique needs. Our advanced ​​SkinSize™ test and dermatology team help create a custom skincare regimen to promote optimal skin health, regardless of your life stage. 

 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.