Category: Ingredients

Posted on by

Using Topical Retinoids in Winter: A No-Nonsense Guide

Winter can be a challenging season for skincare, especially if you’re using topical retinoids. But here’s the key takeaway: consistency is non-negotiable. Retinoids are proven to reduce wrinkles, reverse photo damage, treat acne, and rejuvenate your skin—but only when used daily. Stopping and starting disrupts these benefits, so sticking to your routine is crucial.

Why Consistency Matters

The science behind retinoids is clear: their transformative effects come from consistent use. Studies that showcase their benefits are based on daily application. When you use retinoids consistently, you’re allowing your skin to adjust and fully reap the rewards. While winter might tempt you to pause, doing so could set back your progress.

That said, winter can be hard on your skin. Cold air, low humidity, central heating, and even friction from scarves or coats can compromise your skin barrier, leading to irritation. The solution isn’t to stop but to adjust your routine to protect and support your skin.

Adjusting Your Retinoid Routine in Winter

Keep Applying Your Retinoid Every Day

The golden rule? Don’t skip your retinoid. If you notice irritation—commonly around the nose, chin, or cheeks—it’s fine to temporarily avoid those areas while they recover. But continue applying it to the rest of your face. Some dryness or redness is normal and signals that your retinoid is working. It’s stimulating your skin to renew and behave more youthfully. Embrace these minor discomforts as part of the process.

Support Your Skin Barrier

A strong skin barrier is essential for tolerating retinoids in winter. Here’s how to build a supportive routine:

/01 Choose a Gentle Cleanser

Opt for a hydrating, non-stripping cleanser to avoid exacerbating dryness. Some excellent options include:

  • Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser
  • SVR Topialyse Oil Cleanser
  • Hada Labo Oil Cleanser

/02 Use Moisturiser Strategically

To counter dryness, apply moisturiser either before or after your retinoid:

  • Before: If your skin feels extra dry, use a moisturiser as a buffer before applying the retinoid.
  • After: Apply a generous layer of moisturiser at night after your retinoid.

Recommended moisturisers:

  • La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M
  • CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
  • Aveeno Dermexa

For sensitive skin, try:

  • La Roche-Posay Toleriane Cream
  • Cicaplast Baume AP+M

/03 Reapply Moisturiser During the Day

Harsh winter conditions can dehydrate your skin. Don’t hesitate to reapply a thick layer of moisturiser during the day, especially if you’re spending time outdoors in cold wind or snow. Protect your skin with a scarf as well.

Simplify the Rest of Your Routine

Winter is not the time to overwhelm your skin with active ingredients. Stick to a simple routine:

  • Gentle cleanser
  • Retinoid
  • Rich, soothing moisturiser

Avoid exfoliants or strong acids that could further irritate your skin. A streamlined routine helps your skin better tolerate the retinoid.

Managing Irritation

Even with the best routine, occasional irritation can happen. Here’s how to manage it:

  • Skip Irritated Areas: If certain spots are red or peeling, avoid applying the retinoid there until they settle. Continue using it on the rest of your face.
  • Scale Back Temporarily: If irritation feels excessive, reduce your retinoid application to every other day. Resume daily use as soon as your skin adjusts.
  • Embrace the Process: Minor redness or peeling is a sign the retinoid is working. While severe irritation isn’t ideal, these signs indicate your skin is renewing and improving.

Long-Term Benefits

Retinoids are a long-term investment in your skin. While winter may be challenging, the benefits compound over time. By staying consistent now, you’ll set yourself up for healthier skin when spring arrives. Remember:

  • Use a gentle cleanser.
  • Support your skin barrier with a rich moisturiser.
  • Adjust application as needed but stay consistent.

Your future self will thank you for sticking with your routine. Winter may test your commitment, but with the right adjustments, you can keep your skin on track.

Stay consistent, stay moisturised, and keep going strong. You’ve got this!

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

Posted on by

Tretinoin: The Best Ingredient for Youthful Skin 

When it comes to maintaining youthful, healthy skin, few products are as revered as Tretinoin. Also known by its brand names like Retin-A, Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid that has been a staple in dermatology since the 1960s. Originally developed to treat acne, Tretinoin has since been proven to combat signs of aging, making it a dual-purpose powerhouse in the world of skincare. 

What is Tretinoin? 

Tretinoin is a derivative of Vitamin A and belongs to the broader family of retinoids, which are compounds that have been extensively studied and proven to benefit the skin in multiple ways. Unlike over-the-counter retinoids like retinol, Tretinoin is much more potent and is only available through prescription due to its strength and potential for irritation. It works by speeding up cell turnover, which helps in treating acne, reducing fine lines, improving skin texture, and increasing collagen production. 

The Benefits of Tretinoin 

Tretinoin is often hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging skincare for a reason. Its benefits are numerous and well-documented, making it a go-to for those serious about maintaining youthful skin. Here are some of the key benefits: 

  1. Generates New Collagen: Tretinoin stimulates the production of collagen, a vital protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin. As we age, collagen production decreases, leading to sagging skin and wrinkles. Tretinoin helps reverse this process, making the skin firmer and more resilient. 
  2. Smooths Out Fine Lines and Wrinkles: By promoting cell turnover and collagen production, Tretinoin effectively reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It’s one of the few ingredients with clinically proven anti-aging effects. 
  3. Prevents Collagen Degradation: Not only does Tretinoin promote collagen production, but it also helps prevent the degradation of existing collagen, ensuring that your skin remains youthful for longer.
  4. Promotes Blood Vessel Formation: Tretinoin encourages the formation of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves circulation and gives the skin a healthy, rosy glow. 
  5. Thickens the Epidermis: Over time, Tretinoin thickens the outer layer of the skin, known as the epidermis, making it more resilient and less prone to damage. 
  6. Reduces Hyperpigmentation: Tretinoin can help fade dark spots and even out skin tone by promoting faster cell turnover and inhibiting melanin production. 
  7. Improves Skin Laxity and Texture: With regular use, Tretinoin improves skin laxity, making it appear more toned and youthful. It also smooths out rough texture, giving the skin a more even and refined appearance. 
  8. Increases Cell Turnover: One of the primary functions of Tretinoin is to increase cell turnover, which means that dead skin cells are shed more quickly, and new, healthy cells rise to the surface. This process helps treat and prevent acne, keeping the skin clear and vibrant. 
  9. Treats Acne: Tretinoin was originally developed to treat acne, and it remains one of the most effective treatments for this condition. By preventing clogged pores and reducing inflammation, Tretinoin helps clear up existing breakouts and prevent new ones from forming. 

Using Tretinoin Safely 

While Tretinoin is highly effective, it’s also potent and can cause irritation, especially in those new to retinoids. It’s advisable to start with a lower strength and gradually build up your tolerance. Many dermatologists recommend beginning with applications two to three times per week and slowly increasing frequency as your skin adjusts. Higher strengths can lead to redness, flakiness, and sensitivity, so it’s essential to follow your prescriber’s guidance. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

Posted on by

Understanding Retinol Metabolism

Retinol can be a confusing skincare ingredient, primarily because the term “retinol” is often used interchangeably for all members of the retinoid family. However, not all retinoids are created equal, and understanding the differences between them is key to choosing the right product for your skin. One thing is certain: the retinoid family of ingredients, all derived from Vitamin A, are among the most powerful and scientifically backed ingredients available in skincare. But what makes them so effective? The answer lies in retinol metabolism, the process by which retinol is converted into its most active form, retinoic acid. 

The Retinoid Family 

Before diving into metabolism, let’s clarify the members of the retinoid family. Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from Vitamin A. The most common retinoids used in skincare include: 

  1. Retinol Esters: These are the mildest forms of retinoids, often found in over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products. They are the least irritating but also the least potent. 
  2. Retinol: A stronger form of retinoid, retinol is more effective than retinol esters but can still be found in OTC products. 
  3. Retinaldehyde: Also available OTC, retinaldehyde is even more potent than retinol but is less irritating than prescription forms. 
  4. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): This is the most potent form and is only available via prescription. Retinoic acid works directly on the skin without needing further conversion, making it highly effective for treating various skin concerns, including acne, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. 

The Metabolism Process: From Retinol to Retinoic Acid 

When applied to the skin, retinoids undergo a conversion process to become retinoic acid, the form that your skin cells can use. Here’s a breakdown of the steps: 

  1. Retinol Esters → Retinol: Retinol esters, the least potent form, are first converted into retinol. This step is relatively slow, making retinol esters less irritating but also less effective. 
  2. Retinol → Retinaldehyde: The next step in the conversion process involves the transformation of retinol into retinaldehyde. This form is more potent and closer to retinoic acid, making it more effective but potentially more irritating. 
  3. Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid: The final step is the conversion of retinaldehyde into retinoic acid, the active form that directly affects your skin’s cellular processes. This form is the most effective for stimulating collagen production, speeding up cell turnover, and treating acne and pigmentation. 

Why Retinoic Acid is Prescription-Only 

Retinoic acid, also known as Tretinoin, is highly potent and does not require any conversion in the skin. This direct action makes it extremely effective but also more likely to cause irritation, redness, and peeling, especially in sensitive skin. Due to its strength, retinoic acid is only available via prescription. At Klira, we offer prescription-strength retinoic acid as part of our custom skincare solutions, tailored to your unique skin needs. 

Prescription strength retinoic acid may be included in your Klira formula subject to professional assessment. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.

Posted on by

What are actives in skincare?

Every skincare product starts degrading once it’s opened. Too often we can find ourselves acting as if every bottle contains a perfect, unchanging supply. And worse, some companies like for us to think this way. There are plenty of watered-down products that don’t deliver on real ingredients. One culprit behind ineffective skincare products is time. There’s no fighting against the natural degradation of our products. But there’s a way that we can learn to work with it. It comes down to understanding actives in skincare products and how to use them before we lose them. 

What are actives in skincare? 

In skincare, an ‘active’ ingredient is the most potent part of the formulation. It’s the element that’s meant to target a particular concern.  Some examples of active ingredients would be Vitamin A for anti-ageing, or ceramides for moisturising. The word ‘ingredient’ is helpful to getting the most effective skincare products. Because as with food ingredients, skincare formulations can go bad too. 

How to know if the actives in my skincare are working? 

The most effective actives are as fresh as possible. However, many skincare products don’t come with a clear expiration date.  Some product containers will have a PAO (period after opening) label. This symbol will tell you how long you have to use up the product. For example, ‘12M’ would mean the product is good to use for 12 months. Active ingredients are sensitive to light and heat, and will degrade over time without proper storage. Sometimes a smell or change in colour means that the active ingredients are no longer good. Aside from that, there aren’t many ways to know that something’s ‘off’. But even before expiry, plenty of people aren’t getting the best use from their products.  Most skincare formulations expire faster than you might think. One study that examined retinoids found that almost all tested products had degraded by up to 80% within 6 months. When you go to a restaurant, you’d trust that every ingredient was prepared carefully and immediately. With skincare, it’s a little more difficult since we can’t see the ‘kitchen.’  Even with the highest-quality skincare, it’s only a matter of time before it goes bad. Getting the best out of your products means taking expiry as seriously as you do with your food. 

Ensuring peak potency in the Klira Special 

At Klira, we have a plan to make sure you’re not putting weak, watered-down products into your routine. The Klira Special has a formula to ensure potency: Ingredient x Dose x Base. The ingredients are the Special’s powerful skincare actives. These are the parts of the formulation that directly address your skincare goals and concerns. The dose is a carefully calibrated method to add more actives, bit by bit. As you continue with a new Klira Special each month, the right ingredients will be sprinkled in to customise your treatment. And the base is the luxurious mixer that brings all the actives together. Just like an excellent chocolate seamlessly blends cocoa, milk, and sugar, the Klira Special’s base is the silky, lotion-like element that binds together the formulation’s different ingredients. We don’t create formulations en masse, and we don’t intend them to be one-size-fits all. Instead, each Klira Special is unique and evolving. It’s individually packaged and shipped out while it’s fresh. There’s no time (or money) to waste on ineffective, low-grade formulations. We don’t want you to spend on skincare that’s halfway to its expiration date. The Klira Special is designed for skincare that’s specific, not general. It aims to promote health, not just surface looks. What goes on your face should be fresh. At Klira, we’re creating those meticulous formulations for radiant results. 

Exponent sources 

  1. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products 
  2. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13852?af=R 
  3. dating of cosmetics 
  4. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics 
  • What are active ingredients? 
  • https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0927776522003599 
  • For this purpose, cosmetic industries use active ingredients with multifunctional properties [4], [5], [6], [7] (antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, …). However, these compounds are generally sensitive to various external factors such as light, temperature, oxygen and pH [5], which can lead to their degradation. 

Our Dermatology Team will review your SkinSize™ Analysis, medical information, and photos to decide which ingredients you will receive in your bespoke formula.